Ostrów Tumski is where Wrocław began, a small island now joined to the rest of the city by bridges but keeping a quieter, older feel than the main square.
The twin-towered cathedral dominates the skyline, and a lift ride to the top gives one of the best views in the city over the Odra's many branches.
Time a visit for early evening, when a lamplighter still lights the island's gas lamps by hand – a small, old-fashioned ritual worth building an itinerary around.
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Wrocław's original settlement, an island cut off from the mainstream city, home to the twin-towered cathedral and a cluster of gas lamps still lit by hand each evening.