The Mangalem quarter of Berat, Albania, its whitewashed houses stacked up the hillside
Day Trip · Tirana

Berat day trip from Tirana

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Berat earns its UNESCO listing for a specific reason: tiers of whitewashed Ottoman houses climbing a hillside, each stacked with rows of windows that seem to multiply the higher they go – the "thousand windows" the city is named for.

Two quarters, one river

Mangalem, on one bank, was traditionally Berat's Ottoman and Muslim quarter and is where the thousand-windows effect is most dramatic. Across the river, Gorica was traditionally home to the city's Christian population, with its own historic bridge linking the two – a rare, deliberately preserved example of different religious communities living side by side, part of why UNESCO listed Berat's historic centre in 2008.

A castle people still live in

Above both quarters sits Berat Castle, or Kalaja – unusual among European fortresses in that it's still genuinely inhabited, with families occupying stone homes inside its walls, some centuries old, alongside 13th-century Byzantine churches built when the site's religious mix was already centuries in the making. The city itself goes back further still: founded in the 4th century BC as the Illyrian fortress of Antipatrea, then ruled in turn by Romans, Byzantines, Bulgarians, Serbs and Ottomans, each leaving something behind in the old town's mix of churches, 18th-century mosques and bazaars.

Getting there

Berat is about 103km from Tirana, roughly 2 hours by road – comfortable as a single day trip, with most guided tours building in a stop at Belsh Lake on the way back for a scenic break before returning to the capital.

Booking

The Berat UNESCO Heritage & Belshi Lake Tour runs 9.5 to 10.5 hours with a live guide, covering Mangalem, Gorica and Berat Castle before the Belsh Lake stop on the way home. For a shorter, closer day trip instead, Kruja Castle covers a completely different chapter of Albanian history in about half the driving time.

Good to know

Frequently asked questions

For the tiers of whitewashed Ottoman houses stacked up the hillside in the Mangalem quarter, each with rows of windows that appear to multiply as they climb the slope – the effect that gave the city its nickname.

Image: Visi95 via Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)